Via Francigena: Pontremoli to Lucca

Make your own way to the first hotel in Pontremoli, a jewel in the heart of the Lunigiana region. This afternoon you can wander among the sandstone tower-houses, admire stone warriors and goddesses in the museum of stele statues, visit the local churches, or take an aperitivo in one of the main squares. Sample the local delicacies, torta d'erbe della Lunigiana - a delicious herb pie, and testaroli - a crepe-like pasta that is often served with pesto.

Your walk today will take you through a mix of green countryside and small medieval villages. Along the way you can admire the tower-houses of Ponticello, the ancient hospice of San Jacopo at Filattiera and the ancient Pieve di Sorano, which has been home to the stele statues of Celtic warriors for centuries. Continue to Mocrone where you stay overnight. Distance: 15km/9.3mi Ascent: +250m/820ft, Descent: -350m/1148ft, Surf./Unsurf. 60/40%

From Mocrone you'll head to Filetto and Villafranca, a beautiful medieval village, where you can climb the hill above the walled village of Malgrate and its castle, or look through the trees of the ruins of the old castle of Malnido, residence of the Malaspina family. From Villafranca continue towards Aulla, crossing a thick forest and walking along sections of an ancient Roman road, towards Terrarossa castle. The last section of the walk is over old railway tracks which have now been transformed into a cycle path. Today's destination, Aulla, has many interesting sites. If ancient history interests you be sure to visit the Abbey of San Caprasio and its museum with archaeological finds from the medieval period. You can walk along the ancient walls of Brunella Fortress, a typical example of Renaissance military architecture, and through the old town centre. If you're hungry there is nothing better than the tasty local focaccia, best enjoyed warm and served with charcuterie and cheeses. Overnight in Aulla. Distance: 17.5km/10.9mi Ascent: +300m/984ft, Descent: -390m/1279ft, Surf./Unsurf. 37/63%

The first section of today's walk is over demanding but rewarding paths, and it's here that you will catch your first glimpse of the sea. Along the way you will again pass through green countryside and medieval villages. Today you'll be able to visit the ruins of the La Brina Castle, while at Sarzana you will be amazed by the Baroque interior of the Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral. You can also admire the Gothic facade of the Pieve di Sant'Andrea, the oldest building in the town. This afternoon you can get lost in the old town centre as you wander through the alleyways which lead into the main squares. You can enjoy dinner in one of these squares, and for dessert you should try the "torta scema" and ask a local to explain the meaning behind its name. Overnight in Sarzana. Distance: 17km/10.5mi Ascent: +620m/2034ft, Descent: -645m/2116ft, Surf./Unsurf. 38/62%

The walk today will be mostly along flat paths, following in the footsteps of the ancient pilgrims who walked from the Roman port of Luni towards Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Luni has a fascinating archaeological area which is well worth a visit. The archaeological area includes an ancient Roman amphitheatre and a museum which houses a splendid mosaic dedicated to the God Neptune. Continuing along paths with stunning views of both the sea and the Apuan Alps, you'll finally arrive in Massa where you will stay overnight. Option to shorten today's walk to 18km/11.2mi using the public bus. Distance: 28km/17.4mi Ascent: +445m/1460ft, Descent: -405m/1329ft, Surf./Unsurf. 88/12%

Today's walk takes you up to the Aghinolfi Castle and on to Pietrasanta. Pietrasanta has a splendid old centre with many art galleries and shops, and you should visit the Duomo and admire its marble columns and frescoed vaults before continuing your walk. When you finally arrive in Camaiore with its old town centre and ancient Badia di San Pietro, you can try the local rice-based chocolate cake to reward your day's efforts. Overnight in Camaiore. Option to short today's walk to 20km/12.5mi using the public bus. Distance: 25km/15.6mi Ascent: +420m/1378ft, Descent: -460m/1509ft, Surf./Unsurf. 87/13%

Today you will continue walking over rolling hills eon your way to Lucca. Descend to the valley of the Contesola creek and cross the Serchio River at Ponte San Pietro to reach Lucca. You'll enter Lucca through the city walls and find yourself surrounded by the historic town centre, where many attractions await you. You can admire the decorated facade of San Frediano, browse the small shops in the circular piazza where you can buy local biscuits, or conquer the Guinigi tower and enjoy the views. Overnight in Lucca. Option to short today's walk to 23km/14.3mi using the public bus. Distance: 25km/15.5mi Ascent: +590m/1935ft, Descent: -590m/1935ft, Surf./Unsurf. 58/42%