Peaks of the Balkans Guided Hike

Welcome to the Balkans! A group transfer from Tirana (city centre, 14:00) or at the TIA airport (15:00) takes you to the historic city of Shkoder (84km/2.5hr) and our centrally located hotel. Time permitting, we stop at the Rozafa castle at the entrance of Shkoder and enjoy the fabulous views, a fore taste for the upcoming days of travel through the Albanian Alps. After checking in to your room, the city calls for a stroll through the pedestrian area lined with bourgeoisie townhouses, a reminder of the city's prestigious past. Immerse yourself in the city’s Italian flair, join the buzz of the bazaar to buy dried fruits and other snacks. Meet the group at 7pm before a delicious dinner and tour briefing. Overnight: Hotel Transfer time: 2.5hrs

Your adventure begins with a scenic early morning journey through the Drin Gorges, winding your way to Komani Lake. Often compared to the fjords of Norway, this remote reservoir cuts through towering rock walls, offering one of the most dramatic routes into Albania’s highlands. The ferry that carries you across is unlike most - more of a floating village hub than a tourist vessel. Locals hop on and off with bundles and stories, adding unexpected warmth to the rugged backdrop. After arriving in Fierze, the road takes you further into the Valbona National Park, pausing for a simple lunch in Bajram Curri, a quiet mountain town. By early afternoon, you reach the remote village of Valbona. Stone tower-houses dot the valley, set against a backdrop of jagged peaks. A gentle walk follows a clear mountain stream through ancient beech forest, where you might find wild strawberries along the way. If you're feeling brave, take a refreshing dip in a secluded pool or the icy river. Tonight, you enjoy a delicious, hearty dinner and a well-earned rest after this impression-packed introduction to the Accursed Mountains. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 7km/4.4mi +250m/825ft, -50m/165ft Transfer time: 3hrs (+3hrs boat)

Fueled by a hearty breakfast and a packed lunch in hand, today’s walk begins with a steady climb—your first real ascent of the trek. The trail winds uphill through meadows and forest, opening up to sweeping views of the highest peaks in the Albanian Alps. As the treeline falls away, you enter a wide alpine basin framed by stark, rocky spires. Here, silence reigns, broken only by the wind and distant echo of mountain birds. At 2,039 metres (6,690 feet), Persllopi Pass marks both the day’s highest point and the border with Montenegro. Look across to Mt. Kollata, Albania’s highest peak at 2,534 metres (8,314 feet), rising just beyond reach. From here, the descent begins, first past a curious wind-formed cave, then through a rugged limestone karst where sure footing is essential. As you re-enter Albania, the views are nothing short of extraordinary. Keep an eye out for shepherds moving between high pastures and old-world summer huts. Your destination is Cerem, a tiny village tucked deep into the mountains. With no electricity or mobile signal, it’s a place that feels frozen in time. But what it lacks in modern comforts, it more than makes up for in warmth—home-cooked meals, mountain hospitality, and the kind of quiet that settles deep. If weather conditions make the pass impassable, an alternative route takes you through the impressive Mt. Kollata Canyon, less elevation gain, but no less atmospheric. A simple guesthouse welcomes you at the end, lit by candlelight and surrounded by the vast quiet of the Accursed Mountains. (no electricity). Overnight: Basic Guesthouse Hike: 14km/8.8mi +1,200m/3960ft, -950m/3135ft Transfer time: 10min

Today’s walk carries you deeper into the wild heart of the Accursed Mountains. The trail leads across alpine pastures blanketed in wildflowers. As you climb, the scenery opens to reveal uninterrupted views of Mt. Kolata (2534m/8314ft) and the surrounding high peaks. The landscape begins to shift, denser forests give way to open ridges, and you’ll skirt the edge of a deep river canyon before following a high route through thick conifer woodland. The contrast between the Western and Eastern Alps becomes more visible here: sharp limestone ridges soften into rolling pastures dotted with grazing animals and rustic huts. You might pause for a break in one of the alpine meadows, welcomed by herdsmen offering strong coffee or a warming sip of raki. This is still a working landscape, seasonal, grounded and real. By early evening, you reach Doberdol (1750m/5741ft), a remote glacial valley where shepherd life remains virtually unchanged for generations. Here, cows and sheep wander freely, and families live simply, in tune with the rhythms of the land. There’s no phone signal, no modern distractions, just firelight, fresh mountain air and a sense that time has slowed. You’ll spend the night in a traditional shepherd’s hut, where basic comfort meets deep hospitality. Meals are home-cooked and shared family-style, and stories around the bonfire offer a glimpse into a lifestyle few travellers ever encounter. Overnight: Basic Shepherds Hut Hike: 16km/10mi +1100m/3609ft, -450m/1476ft

After bidding farewell to your hosts in Doberdol, you set off on a steady climb towards Mt. Tromedja, also known as Trekufiri (2366m/7762ft), where the borders of Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo converge. With every step, the cluster of shepherd huts and free-roaming herds below shrink into the valley behind you. At the summit, the world opens up. To the west, the green folds of Montenegro’s Babino Polje stretch out beneath you. To the east, Kosovo’s highest summit, Mt. Gjeravica (2656m/8714ft), drops dramatically into the Dukagjin Plain. You’re standing on a roof of the Balkans one foot in each country, surrounded by solitude and sky. The route continues along a historic caravan trail hugging the border ridge of the Bjeshkët e Namuna (Accursed Mountains) National Park. Below the jagged 2,500-metre peaks of Mt. Marijash and Mt. Rops, the panoramic views swing between two nations. Crossing the Roshkodoli Pass, you begin a gentle descent into the pine-clad highlands of Kosovo. Your destination is Milishevc, a peaceful village where summer huts, simple, hand-built wooden lodges, serve as seasonal homes for herders and travellers alike. It’s a welcome reward after a big day on the trail: warm food, mountain comfort, and the quiet charm of a place that still lives by the seasons. Overnight: Basic Mountain Huts Hike: 18km/11.25mi +825m/2722ft, -1100m/3630ft

The Lumbardhi Ridge (2130m/7030ft) is the last obstacle that separates Milishevc from the Rugova Gorge. The barely visible route out of the alps and up to the crest is rewarded with good views of the surrounding mountains. Hidden behind the ridge, extensive grazing grounds surround the artesian pond at the foot of Mt Red Rock (Guri i Kuq, 2522m). While most of the pastures were abandoned after the Kosovo war, the Lumbardhi Alps is one of the few exceptions where livestock is still tended to on a larger scale. Beyond the pastureland, the mountain plunges deep down into the Rugova Gorge. Looking across to the ridge of Hajla we can envision our panoramic hike tomorrow. The frequently very steep trail leads through a gully and old growth woods to the bottom of the canyon. Here you stop for drinks and weather allowing, for a swim. At the end of the day, a short transfer on a rugged road takes you to the friendly hosts in Reka e Allages. Enjoy a cold drink at sunset with magnificent views over Guri i Kuq, while a hearty dinner is prepared. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 14km/8.75mi +525m/1735ft, -1200m/3960ft Transfer time: 45min

The hike begins across meadows and along the blueberry trail, before quickly ascending in a dense pine forest to the base of Mt Hajla (2403m/7884ft). Multiple very steep routes lead to the peak that forms the border with Montenegro. From the top of the 300m high cliff, views reach far into the neighboring country and city of Rozaje. The ascent is optional and your guide will help you evaluate if you should join. You may opt out to keep the day short (<5h) and take the chance to relax, read a book or absorb the scenery. Chances to spot rare plants like Edelweiss or the endemic Albanian Lily are at their highest here. From the base, the walk continues at high altitude along a now unused road, to the highest of the thirteen Rugova villages, Pepaj. Walking through a rocky gully, circled by tall pines, you have a few chances to catch a glimpse over the scenic hamlet of Drelaj. The village is more populated and seems closer to civilization than your previous overnight stays. At the accommodation, you will be delighted by another delicious dinner, as the family prepares the campfire in the garden. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 15km/9.4mi +1150m/3795ft, -1300m/4290ft