Le Puy Camino - Aumont to Conques

Make your own way to Aumont-Aubrac. Set at 1050m, the town is in the heart of Lozère and is an important point on the Le Puy Camino. The old town has preserved houses from the 16th and 17th centuries with sculpted stone facades. There is a statue here of the “Bête du Gévaudan” (Beast of the Gévaudan), the man-eating wolf-dog that terrorised the Lozère area in the late 1700s and as a werewolf has inspired literature and popular culture since the mid 1800s. Optional hotel upgrade (with pool) at Aumont available - must be requested at time of booking, supplement applies.

From Aumont-Aubrac in “Terre de Peyre” (land of stone), the trail crosses beautiful pine forests before joining the Aubrac plateau, an expanse of pastures punctuated by “burons” (traditionally a shelter in the Auvergne region where cheese was made). Here you are in the country of the famous Laguiole knife, an indispensable tool to cut the cheese of the same name. Arrive at your hotel/guest house in Nasbinals. Distance 26km/16.2mi, +392m/1286ft, -264m/866ft (highest point approx 1250m)

This stage takes you through the heart of the Aubrac plateau, where the ancestral rite of transhumance is still practiced (the transhumance fair is on the Sunday nearest 25 May). For lunch you can try a regional specialty at a buron, where local dishes are available such as “aligot” (mashed potato with cheese and garlic), assorted meats from the mountains or a good crepe omelette. In Aubrac you can see remnants of an ancient “Domerie” (name given to the hospital in Aubrac in medieval times). Overnight hotel in St-Chely d'Aubrac. Distance 16km/10mi, +207m/679ft, -583m/1912ft (highest point approx 1360m)

Today you leave “Boraldes” (the name for the brooks descending from the plateau) country to reach the Lot valley. Here you are near St-Côme d’Olt, listed among the “Most beautiful villages of France”. There are remnants of numerous bridges constructed over the Lot river which made the pilgrims' crossings easier. Continue to St-Come d'Olt, where the usual accommodation has a pool. Distance 17km/10.3mi, +248m/814ft, -702m/2303ft (highest point approx 920m) Subject to availability you may stay at Espalion further along the trail. Espalion has a lovely old stone bridge over the River Lot, the Pont Vieux, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a lovely river front: the buildings with characteristic wooden balconies were once tanneries. The Friday morning market is reputed to be one of the best in the area. Distance 21.5km/13.4mi, +330m/1082ft, -715m/2345ft

Continue your walk following the Lot river to the lovely village of Estaing, with its Gothic bridge and imposing chateau. There is one short, quite steep ascent at around the 4km point. The annual St Fleuret fair has been held in Estaing since the 14th century (on the first Sunday in July). On this occasion, a great procession travels through the village in period costume. Overnight hotel in Estaing. Distance from Saint-Côme d'Olt 20km/12mi, +500m/1640ft, -559m/1834ft (highest point approx 490m) Distance from Espalion 12km/7.5mi, +210m/689ft, -255m/837ft

Today is a straightforward walk, the last stage in the Lot valley. An ascent (approx 330m) is completed early on so you can enjoy the views across the hills as you walk along the plateau to Golinhac. Golinhac is remarkable for its church, which preserves the Roman foundations of a Benedictine priory, once dependent on Conques abbey. At the southern entrance of the village of Golinhac there is a stony cross with a small sculpted pilgrim. Overnight in Golinhac. Distance 14km/8.8mi, +512m/1680ft, -183m/600ft (highest point approx 660m)

From Golinhac you will soon reach Espeyrac where in 960, according to the tale, a pilgrim who became blind after a mugging, recovered sight by making an invocation to the patron saint of Conques. The trail crosses the Daze and Tayrac, minor rivers, and Senergues with its fortified chateau and beautiful little church, then climbs onto the rolling plateau of Campeux, leading you to one of the most notable places on the Way of St James, the town of Conques. The walk into Conques is very often a favourite for pilgrims, as the view over the village is breathtaking if you come from the east. While descending into the deep valley of the Ouche, you will arrive near the Dourdou river (which flows into the Lot river, to the north) and discover this village where the towers of the Sainte-Foy abbey-church dominate. Its tympanum of the Last Judgment is a true Romanesque art piece. Relax in one of the many bars to experience the atmosphere of this lovely town. Distance 21km/13mi, +373m/1224ft, -757m/2483ft (highest point approx 670m) Please note: if you arrive in Conques on a Monday, the restaurant is closed and dinner is not included.