Brittany Walled Towns Cycle

St Malo is a remarkable site, built at the mouth of the river Rance. It has been the subject of many disputes in the past due to its access to the sea and its position at the frontier between the Duchy of Normandy and the Kingdom of France. In the 16th century the port grew incredibly fast with the development of its fishing fleet and the discovery of Canada. Your hotel is situated a short walk from the fortifications.

If you were not able to explore the fortifications and the old town of St Malo yesterday then you should take the opportunity this morning. When you commence cycling you will follow the coast road between Saint Malo and the Pointe de Grouin, with fine views of the Isles of Chaussey and of the open sea. You may spot dolphins in this area where the Cote d'Emeraude and the Bay of Mont St Michel meet. The port of Cancale is at the entrance of the Bay and is the oyster capital of France. A great spot to stop for lunch or afternoon snack! You will leave the Bay and head inland on quiet, country roads. Overnight in a genuine manor house which dates from the beginning of the 18th Century and was once the base of the famous Saint Malo corsair, Robert Surcouff. Ascent/descent: +392m/1286ft, -383m/1256ft

You should spend a little time wandering round the old town of Dol and visit its cathedral before setting off this morning. Travelling to the north and towards the Bay of Mont Saint Michel you will pass Mont Dol. Once an island, today this rocky outcrop is a fascinating archaeological site. From Cherrueix you will follow the Bay towards the east. At low tide you will see the shell-fish producers out on the sand with their tractors tending to their oyster parks and mussel beds. Once you have crossed the Polders you will arrive at Mont Saint Michel. It will take you about 3 hours to walk around the ramparts and visit the Abbey at the top, before you wander back down through the village. From here you join the cycling path along the Couesnon towards the authentic town of Pontorson. Ascent: +71m/233ft, Descent: -86m/282ft

After a visit to the German War Cemetery at Mont d'Huisme, you will cycle towards the eastern side of the Bay and the estuary of the Salune, one of three tidal rivers which flow into the bay. You then head inland alongside the 'herbus' (pastures occasionally covered by exceptionally high tides) right to the end of the funnel-shaped estuary. Before leaving the Bay you might be lucky enough to see the tidal bore known here as the 'Mascaret', which is caused by the strong tidal currents. Pedalling south, you'll pass the Montmorel Abbey at Polley and arrive at Saint James, famous for the Normandy striped sports shirts. After leaving Saint James you will see the American cemetery, a reminder of the Battle of Normandy, which included action round the Bay of Mont Saint Michel. Your route then takes you on to Fougères. Look out for dolmens (stone tombs) along the way. Your hotel is perfectly placed in the heart of this walled town, allowing you to visit the biggest fortifications in the region on foot. Ascent: +534m/1752ft, Descent: -398m/1306ft

Your journey today and tomorrow will take you deeper into the Brittany countryside. Far from the tourist routes and travelling west on small country lanes, you will pass isolated farms and granite manor houses and cycle through beautiful, leafy woods. The terrain is varied and the villages authentic. Combourg will be your overnight stop. The 18th century Romantic writer François René de Châteaubriand found his inspiration here, and you can enjoy the atmosphere of Lac Tranquille and the imposing castle. Ascent: +424m/1391ft, Descent: -505m/1656ft

You'll continue heading west today, joining the Rance valley at Evran. You will travel along the valley as far as the village of Léhon, where you cross to the other bank of the Rance and reach the walled town of Dinan. This remarkable medieval town is one of the finest examples of Brittany architecture and has a large number of granite buildings with upper storeys built in timber. Your hotel itself was a convent in the 16th century. We recommend eating out tonight at one of the many creperies in town. Ascent: +345m/1132ft, Descent: -315m/1033ft

If you're choosing the shorter route today we recommend having a thorough visit of Dinan before leaving. You'll then head off by bike from the port, following the left bank of the Rance before crossing the river to the north of Plouër-sur-Rance. Whilst pedaling alongside the estuary as far as Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets you will be treated to some quite remarkable scenery. This is a true inland sea where boats sail right up to the artichoke fields and farmers' villages have become ports. Head back to St Malo and the beautiful beaches of the Sillon. Or the longer route will take in the Cote d'Emeraude and the town of Dinard. Ascent/descent: +353 or 604m/1158 or 1981ft, Descent: -419 or 674m/1375 or 2211ft