Trek the GR20 of Corsica

Our adventure begins in Conca, a one-time shepherd village among forested hills, and the southern start point of the GR20. There’s time to settle into our accommodation this afternoon. Around 6pm, say salute to your tour leader and fellow travellers, where we gather as a group to get to know each other and learn more about the adventures ahead during a welcome briefing. Your tour leader then ensures a big welcome over dinner together. Want extra time in Corsica? Secure pre-tour hotel nights through your sales representative.

The first hiking day is tough, a good introduction to the pace and challenge ahead. The trail leads uphill from Conca, following an ancient herders’ route through a rocky landscape of granite blocks and pines. The route continues to the Paliri refuge, then crosses the Finosa col before arriving at the hamlet of Bavella, below the Bavella Needles, great granite spikes that create a rocky ridge. We spend the night in dorms, resting after a challenging first day.

Before dawn, we take the Alpine Variant trail, which leads steeply uphill before passing the base of several granite pinnacles. Plunge into the valley before following an easy route through woods towards the Asinao refuge, before heading steeply up to the magnificent ridgeline of Monte Alcudina. We then leave the high ground and head down towards the Cuscionu plateau, the largest on the island. We sleep in dorms at a shepherds’ cabin on the edge of the plateau.

Pick up the trail on the plateau and cross the open green pasture with streams and little water holes. We then make our way uphill through an old forest of dwarf oak trees up to the Col de l’Agnone. From here, we start one of the best ridge hikes in Corsica; it is very exposed, the trail is tricky and you may find it difficult to imagine that there’s a way through. A real adventure! The trail runs back and forth over the ridge, before we drop to the village of Cozzano, a hive of activity in the heart of the mountains.

From the refuge, continue along a ridge separating the valley of Taravo and the village of Fiumorbu, after which the trail plunges towards the Col de Laparo. We pass the GR refuge, Prati, where we can stop to enjoy rooftop views of the island. It is sometimes possible to see the Italian islands of Elba and Montecristo. The descent winds rapidly, in and out of the forest, to our destination at the Col de Verde.

The trail rolls gently today and mainly contours through a forest of lariccio pine trees, a symbol of the island. Today’s hike traverses the flanks of the dominating mountain, Monte Renosu. We continue to Bocca Palmente; on a clear day, the views are exceptional, the looming massifs of the Monte d’Oro and the Rotondu towering above. Drop down into a thick forest of pine and beech trees for a relaxing descent, the trail loops back and forth down to Vizzavona, the midway point of the GR20.

Today we start the northern section of the GR20. We typically embark on a steady ascent to the Brêche de Muratellu, taking the path running alongside the Cascade des Anglais up to Muratellu, affording stunning views of the Monte Rotondu. This high-level route follows the ridge, via the summit of Pinzi Corbini to Petra Piana refuge. This is a short but challenging ridge section, steep and exposed. In bad weather, there is an alternative lower valley option, which heads directly to Petra Piana. Tonight we camp near the Petra Piana refuge without access to our bags.